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Zimbabwe: A Nation in Recovery (Part 1 of 6)

In August of 2009, Austin Andrews and I visited Zimbabwe on assignment for the International Organization for Migration (IOM). Our task was to document the work of IOM in Zimbabwe as the country recovered from an unprecedented economic meltdown. Photographs are copyright © 2009 Will van Engen / International Organization for Migration (IOM).

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Migration and Health: Caledonia

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Our journey in Zimbabwe began with a visit to one of the hardest hit villages in the country. In 2005, the government launched a program known as “Operation Restore Order,” ostensibly aimed at clearing illegal housing developments. Critics argue that these slums are bases of support for the opposition party, the Movement for Democratic Change (MDC), and the operation was a move to consolidate political power.

Soldiers demolished thousands of homes in slums surrounding Harare and other major centres, leaving close to 700,000 people without a place to stay. Several transit camps were established on the outskirts of Harare. Caledonia was one of those places. The International Organization for Migration (IOM) operates a mobile medical clinic in Caledonia once a month. For many this is the only access to medical attention they will have.

Hundreds of Caledonia residents wait to see health professionals at IOM’s mobile health clinic.

A young girl waits in line outside of the medical clinic.

A mother and child await medical attention outside of the mobile clinic.

Two young girls wait outside of the medical clinic.

A mother and child await medical attention at the IOM clinic.

A medical professional checks the blood pressure of an elderly Caledonia resident.

An elderly woman has a routine health check performed.

A child has his eye examined by an IOM health professional.

A Nation in Recovery

Ward 9

A child sits outside of a village in Ward 9, Zimbabwe. Zimbabwe’s economy has begun the slow and labourious climb back to economic stability. The abandonment of the Zim Dollar, and subsequent adoption of the US Dollar and the South African Rand as official currency, has ended the rampant inflation Zimbabwe saw in 2008. More photos to come soon.

Inside the Dark City

Located only a few kilometres from one of the richest areas in all of Africa, Alexandra Township — known simply as Alex– is a densely populated slum known for its history of activism and collective resistance. Nelson Mandela described 1940s Alex as “exhilarating and precarious; its atmosphere was alive, its spirit adventurous, its people resourceful.” For three months in 1957, 60,000 residents marched many kilometres to work in protest of a drastic hike in public transit fees. Two months later, a fund was set up by the government and private employers to subsidize transit for township residents.

In the 1960s, the apartheid government announced its plans to demolish all family housing and build 25 single-sex hostels, an effort that was fiercely resisted by residents. Some 70,000 people were forcibly removed from Alex to Soweto and Tembisa but the plan had to be scrapped in 1979 due to high costs and increasing public resistance. In the early 90s, the few hostels that were built became hotbeds of political violence with members of the Inkatha Freedom Party (IFP) and the African National Congress (ANC) fighting a bloody urban war. It still remains the precarious place it was in the days of apartheid; 19 Alex residents were killed in the xenophobic violence that swept the country in May 2008.

Although electricity has been provided to most of Alex now, it is still referred to as the Dark City for the decades it was without power.

Fire and cakes

A woman and child sell “fatcakes” to morning commuters.

Streetvendor/Street

Alex residents begin their morning commute to school and work.

Diagonal shacks

Alex is organized into three main areas: West Alex, East Alex and the Far East Bank. West Alex, also known as Old Alex (pictured above), is mainly comprised of cheaply built shacks with poor access to water and electricity. East Alex is a middle-class black neighbourhood with some gated homes. The Far East bank is composed of RDP homes built by the government for lower-income residents.

Graffiti

Poorly constructed shacks in front of the women’s hostel.

Reflections of poverty

The humble interior of a shanty home is reflected in a mirror.

Pipeline and homes

A child sits on a sewage pipe near the banks of the Jutskei River.

Barbed wire

A township resident walks past a tangled razor wire enclosure.

Schoolgirl

A schoolgirl walks past an educational mural featuring Sleeping Beauty and the Seven Dwarves. The woman’s hostel looms behind.

Boy and a bottle

A young boy hides from the sun in an Alexandra alley.

Hands

Young men warm their hands near a streetside shop.

Power lines

Often-dangerous overhead power lines are a common site in Alex.

A voice for the people

A vocal member of the Umphakathi Development Forum, an organization of concerned township residents, describes the lack of proper sanitation and electricity in Alex.

Ex-rat

A serious rat infestation threatens to promote disease in the township. Dead rats are a common sight on the streets, where children play and where most local commerce happens.

Zuma defaced

Political rivalries that began in the early 80s and 90s still fester in Alexandra. A campaign poster of ANC leader Jacob Zuma lies defaced on a store wall.

ANC support

An ANC supporter shows off a campaign t-shirt.

Woman's hostel

A young boy plays in the courtyard of Alexandra’s women’s hostel. More photos from inside the hostel coming soon.

Informal settlements

Informal settlements, known colloquially as squatter camps, sit on the river of the Jutskei River. Every year, hundreds of houses along the river are destroyed by rising water levels.

Jutskei kids

Kids play on the banks of the Jutskei River.

Tree

A tree shoots above the tin roofs of the informal settlements.

RDP leading lines

On the Far East Bank, homes built under the government’s Reconstruction and Development Programme (RDP) are under construction. On the horizon lies Old Alex, where citizens wait years on waiting lists to get an RDP home. Some people we talked to have been on the list since 1996; they claim corrupt officials grant homes to people who will pay a bribe.

RDP construction worker

An RDP construction worker.

RDP interior

The interior of an RDP home.

RDP Sunset

RDP construction workers are silhouetted as the sun sets on the Far East Bank.

Check out Austin Andrews’ blog for some great photos from the same day.

History through bulletproof glass

Austin and I visited the Apartheid Museum on Wednesday of last week. On display was a Casspir, a landmine protected personnel carrier originally designed for South Africa’s military, but used extensively during the late 80s and early 90s in the bloody years leading up to the end of apartheid.

Bullet holes

Union leaders of the Struggle on display behind attempted perforations in the Casspir’s bulletproof hide.

Marching for Change

Thousands of municipal workers took to the streets of Johannesburg today demanding a 15% pay hike and guarantees that all vacant job placements will be filled by no later than January 2010. Garbage collection, vehicle licensing and bus services did not run today, adding to the chaos caused by a 40-block power outage in the Central Business District.

South Africa has seen a wave of violent protests in recent weeks. On Wednesday, a township near Balfour saw riots reminiscent of the xenophobic violence of last year; some 100 foreigners huddled outside the Balfour police station, afraid to return to their homes. Faced with high unemployment and lack of services, township residents are resentful of foreigners who they fear may take jobs away from South Africans.

President Zuma’s ANC administration campaigned on a platform to reduce poverty and has since had to renege on a promise to create 500,000 jobs. In the midst of an economic recession, it may be difficult to meet the demands of the many trade unions. The government barely avoided a strike by rail workers today.

Cheers

Municipal workers chant and ululate as they march to the municipal buildings.

Peanuts

“If you pay peanuts, then hire monkeys.” Strikers have called for a 15% increase in wages among other demands.

Stare down

An angry striker stares down a security official outside the headquarters of Pik It Up, the City of Johannesburg’s waste management company.

Hauled off

Other marchers diffuse the situation and keep the peace.

On the doorstep

An angry striker tosses a bag of garbage at the front doors of Pik It Up.

Peace

A union member pleads with the crowd to stop throwing garbage at the building.

Trash toss

Despite the efforts of some union members, strikers continue to throw trash onto the streets.

Dance

Dance

Outside municipal government buildings –and the headquarters of FIFA South Africa– protesters sing and dance while waiting for an address from municipal leaders.

Union leader

Union leader

Union leaders address the crowd.

The suits

Mayor Amos Masondo prepares to address the crowd.

Demands

Union members cite the large salaries municipal officials make as one reason for a raise. Samwu (South African Municipal Workers Union) secretary general Dumisani Langa was quoted in The Star as saying that “an executive director earns about R1 Million (US $130,000)…while ordinary workers who perform critical duties earn just R3500 (US $450) a month.”

Police

Police stand between irate union members and curt politicians.

An unwanted blockade

An older man tests the resolve of a police unit protecting the podium, moments before the crowds disperse. Local officials have so far not agreed to meet the demands of the workers; Samwu has said that it will continue striking till at least Wednesday.

To see an excellent set of photos on the same event, check out Austin Andrews’ photoblog by clicking here.

Township in Turmoil

A restless crowd

Fed up with the lack of service delivery in their township, residents congregate in a soccer stadium to hear the remarks of Mayor Lefty Tsotetsi on July 22nd.

A better view

Residents of Siyathemba township, on the outskirts of Balfour, climb to get a better view of the mayor’s remarks.

Young and Old

Angry with the lack of sanitation, water and garbage services  –services that the ANC government has pledged to fix– young and old come out to give the mayor a piece of their mind.

Jeers

A middle-aged man yells as the crowd behind stomps and jeers.

Throwing stones

After the crowds file out of the stadium, people begin throwing stones at police nyalas (armoured vehicles).

Checking out the scene

The police

Police officers check out the scene.

Rubber bullets

In response to the crowds, police break up the improvised street barricades and shoot rubber bullets and tear gas into the crowds.

Retreat

Township dwellers run as rubber bullets are fired in their direction.

Alon and Thys

Photographers Alon Skuy and Thys Dullaart of the Times run to find a better position.

Taking cover

A photographer and videographer take cover on a porch as a police nyala is pelted with rocks and bottles.

Smokey silhouettes

As the crowds subside, township residents warm themselves by a flaming road block.

Sunset patrol

As the sun sets, a police nyala makes another pass.

Kerosene road block

Residents warm themselves by a makeshift road block. As the sun goes down, residents retire from the protests for now, their anger burning beneath the surface. It remains to be seen whether the situation will get uglier in days to come.